Internet access has not been marvellous over the past week or so and as I start work on Monday you will be pleased to hear the day by day account won’t continue I will just be putting something up every now and again until the adventures start again with Elizabeth in January.  So a few more days to add

Saturday 13^th continued…….

So we spent time at Bodnath (Bouda) today.  This is an enormous stupa that is part of the pilgrimage route and pilgrims will circumnavigate the stupa in a clockwise direction.  The stupa was built as penance by a Tibetan king who killed his father.   This is the main place to access Tibetan Buddhism culture in Kathmandu, and the workshops and markets and monasteries surrounding the stupa reflect this.  The main visitors apart from the tourists are Tibetan refugees who live here, sherpas and western students attending the monasteries.  Maroon robes are the theme for this branch of Buddhism.  The other 2 temples next to the stupa had the biggest gold Buddah I have ever seen and it really took our breath away, it was as tall as a house and beautiful.  We did the walk around the stupa, missed the exit and had to go round again as you can’t go the wrong way!

From Bodnath we took a cab to Rum Doodle bar which is the bar named after a book written by W.E. Bowman called “The ascent of Rum Doodle”, it is a spoof about the ascent of a 40,000 and a half foot peak and stars Jungle, the always lost routefinder, Prone, the always ill doctor, and Constant, the always arguing diplomat. As a result of this cult book the bar is the place to go after reaching Everest Base Camp and the ceiling is covered with Big-Foot prints signed by all those who have managed it.  For those of us that haven’t we just get the small-foot beer mats as souvenirs! The book is worth a read it is so very British.

Sunday 14^th October

Today George left which meant an emotional 6am departure.  Sarah and I went to Pashupatinath which is the main Hindu Temple on the banks of the Bagmati River and is where Hindu’s are cremated and despite the filthy river is one of the most powerful Hindu sites.  The area is surrounded by markets that only really sell items used in religious ceremonies like marigolds, tikka powder, and prayer beads.   As an International Heritage site we paid to get in.  A student approached us offering to be our guide and for once we took him up on the offer, and he was fantastic and well worth the 500rs we paid (about £3.60) for 2 hours.  We watched a funeral start.  The body is laid on a slanted slab so the feet can be uncovered and placed in the river, the slab has a channel directly linked with the temple so sacred milk can anoint the body.  You can only see the head and the feet (or foot in this case) uncovered and it is not gruesome.  The professional funeral person directs the proceedings.  The body is carried by the male family members and the rest of the family come and say their goodbyes at this point.  The women are then sent home because they make too much noise and wail.  From here the sons get their heads shaved apart from a tuft at the top of their head and dress in a white robe covering their bottom half.  Once this has been done the body is put on the Ghat which is a stone platform with a wooden pyre on top.  The body is covered with natural products to encourage burning such as sandlewood and is kept covered during the burning which can take 4 hours.  Once reduced to ash it is pushed into the river.  The ghats closer to the temple are the most expensive and the one directly in front of the temple can only be used by royalty.  The men all sit around while the body burns, smoking, chatting etc all very informal.  Once over the sons with the shaved heads cannot be touched for 13 days and they eat only bread and rice and drink plain water.   Annually the son and family come back to meet with the holy men here and do a remembrance ritual. 

Behind the Ghats is the hospice where people who are dying come, the doctors here have the role of deciding when the person is dead based on their pulse and temperature.  There is also a government funded home for the elderly, where poverty stricken families can bring their relatives to be cared for, here they were all sat chatting, making wicks for the candles and entertaining visitors and tourists a really great atmosphere.

On the other side of the river were the fertility temples where couples trying to have children will come on a Saturday to make offerings.  Also the deer park where we saw Barking and Spotted Deer.  There are numerous fake holy men here who dress in yellow and orange and paint their faces like the Hindu god Shiva – they basically give (fake) blessings and pose for photos for money.  This was a really interesting place and despite being a little concerned before coming about all the dead bodies it was actually fine.  Death is a very open topic and the people are very pragmatic about it – rather refreshing.

From here we walked back through Chabahil a local residential area.  The school we passed had boards outside showing photos of this year’s “future doctors, engineers and dentists”.  The local kids were so keen to talk with us in English much to the amusement of their parents.  Education has great importance here, and the best clothing most of the children have is their school uniform.  I can’t comment on the quality of the education, but many schools are incredibly noisy and appear chaotic so who knows.  We tried to get a tut-tut back to Thamel but couldn’t find the right one so ended up in a cab – determined to get on one at some point!

We did make it onto a rickshaw to New Road the main local shopping area, but think we are unlikely to do it again – the journey was really uncomfortable due to the pot holes and the seat, and the guy had to get off on the uphill slopes as he couldn’t manage to cycle making us feel guilty.  He also tried to take a short cut and got told off by the police!

Here we went in a few of the material shops and I chose a black and ivory pattern for a tunic, and black cotton material for trousers.  The shop owner took us round to the local tailors which was up the smallest busiest street I have ever seen and through into a back street courtyard – we would never have found this ourselves.  Here I was measured and chose the style I wanted – I’m not sure how many westerners they get here we were definitely a novelty.  The material cost me 550rs and the tailoring was 600rs in total about £8 for the entire outfit to be collected in 2 days just in time for Dashain festival.  We also came across the shop selling a beautiful leaf patterned silk that I had spotted on my first day with George, but hadn’t managed to find again so I bought enough for another dress to be tailored at some point.  Sarah bought an amazing piece of mandala artwork which depicts the circle of life, the elements, and holds messages about well-being and spiritualism which will go nicely in her newly renovated house.

Then off to the Full Moon Bar (with a half moon motif) for cocktails and chilly chips.  A small deviation to Paddy’s bar (yes even in Kathmandu) as they had a live band and before we knew it, it was 1am and we were leaving having spent the evening chatting and drinking with a group of doctors from all over the world  who were here to work in Kathmandu. Random events like that happen here as everyone is open and chatting to strangers is the pleasant norm - it is amazing who you meet.  I must apologise to Kirsty and Ian for the slightly tipsy conversation I had with you having called the UK – it was great to speak to you though.

Monday 15^th October

Today was a lazy day.  I did a bit of shopping and booked in for a 1.5hour trekkers massage which was a combination of Shiatsu, Thai and Areyvedervic (the one I can’t say or spell – but very oily!).  She was walking on my back stretching me and it was great – a little surprised when my chest was included but presumed it must be the norm.  We had a lovely dinner and an early night......