Internet access has not been marvellous over the past week or so and as I start work on Monday you will be pleased to hear the day by day account won’t continue I will just be putting something up every now and again until the adventures start again with Elizabeth in January.  So a few more days to add

Saturday 13^th continued…….

So we spent time at Bodnath (Bouda) today.  This is an enormous stupa that is part of the pilgrimage route and pilgrims will circumnavigate the stupa in a clockwise direction.  The stupa was built as penance by a Tibetan king who killed his father.   This is the main place to access Tibetan Buddhism culture in Kathmandu, and the workshops and markets and monasteries surrounding the stupa reflect this.  The main visitors apart from the tourists are Tibetan refugees who live here, sherpas and western students attending the monasteries.  Maroon robes are the theme for this branch of Buddhism.  The other 2 temples next to the stupa had the biggest gold Buddah I have ever seen and it really took our breath away, it was as tall as a house and beautiful.  We did the walk around the stupa, missed the exit and had to go round again as you can’t go the wrong way!

From Bodnath we took a cab to Rum Doodle bar which is the bar named after a book written by W.E. Bowman called “The ascent of Rum Doodle”, it is a spoof about the ascent of a 40,000 and a half foot peak and stars Jungle, the always lost routefinder, Prone, the always ill doctor, and Constant, the always arguing diplomat. As a result of this cult book the bar is the place to go after reaching Everest Base Camp and the ceiling is covered with Big-Foot prints signed by all those who have managed it.  For those of us that haven’t we just get the small-foot beer mats as souvenirs! The book is worth a read it is so very British.

Sunday 14^th October

Today George left which meant an emotional 6am departure.  Sarah and I went to Pashupatinath which is the main Hindu Temple on the banks of the Bagmati River and is where Hindu’s are cremated and despite the filthy river is one of the most powerful Hindu sites.  The area is surrounded by markets that only really sell items used in religious ceremonies like marigolds, tikka powder, and prayer beads.   As an International Heritage site we paid to get in.  A student approached us offering to be our guide and for once we took him up on the offer, and he was fantastic and well worth the 500rs we paid (about £3.60) for 2 hours.  We watched a funeral start.  The body is laid on a slanted slab so the feet can be uncovered and placed in the river, the slab has a channel directly linked with the temple so sacred milk can anoint the body.  You can only see the head and the feet (or foot in this case) uncovered and it is not gruesome.  The professional funeral person directs the proceedings.  The body is carried by the male family members and the rest of the family come and say their goodbyes at this point.  The women are then sent home because they make too much noise and wail.  From here the sons get their heads shaved apart from a tuft at the top of their head and dress in a white robe covering their bottom half.  Once this has been done the body is put on the Ghat which is a stone platform with a wooden pyre on top.  The body is covered with natural products to encourage burning such as sandlewood and is kept covered during the burning which can take 4 hours.  Once reduced to ash it is pushed into the river.  The ghats closer to the temple are the most expensive and the one directly in front of the temple can only be used by royalty.  The men all sit around while the body burns, smoking, chatting etc all very informal.  Once over the sons with the shaved heads cannot be touched for 13 days and they eat only bread and rice and drink plain water.   Annually the son and family come back to meet with the holy men here and do a remembrance ritual. 

Behind the Ghats is the hospice where people who are dying come, the doctors here have the role of deciding when the person is dead based on their pulse and temperature.  There is also a government funded home for the elderly, where poverty stricken families can bring their relatives to be cared for, here they were all sat chatting, making wicks for the candles and entertaining visitors and tourists a really great atmosphere.

On the other side of the river were the fertility temples where couples trying to have children will come on a Saturday to make offerings.  Also the deer park where we saw Barking and Spotted Deer.  There are numerous fake holy men here who dress in yellow and orange and paint their faces like the Hindu god Shiva – they basically give (fake) blessings and pose for photos for money.  This was a really interesting place and despite being a little concerned before coming about all the dead bodies it was actually fine.  Death is a very open topic and the people are very pragmatic about it – rather refreshing.

From here we walked back through Chabahil a local residential area.  The school we passed had boards outside showing photos of this year’s “future doctors, engineers and dentists”.  The local kids were so keen to talk with us in English much to the amusement of their parents.  Education has great importance here, and the best clothing most of the children have is their school uniform.  I can’t comment on the quality of the education, but many schools are incredibly noisy and appear chaotic so who knows.  We tried to get a tut-tut back to Thamel but couldn’t find the right one so ended up in a cab – determined to get on one at some point!

We did make it onto a rickshaw to New Road the main local shopping area, but think we are unlikely to do it again – the journey was really uncomfortable due to the pot holes and the seat, and the guy had to get off on the uphill slopes as he couldn’t manage to cycle making us feel guilty.  He also tried to take a short cut and got told off by the police!

Here we went in a few of the material shops and I chose a black and ivory pattern for a tunic, and black cotton material for trousers.  The shop owner took us round to the local tailors which was up the smallest busiest street I have ever seen and through into a back street courtyard – we would never have found this ourselves.  Here I was measured and chose the style I wanted – I’m not sure how many westerners they get here we were definitely a novelty.  The material cost me 550rs and the tailoring was 600rs in total about £8 for the entire outfit to be collected in 2 days just in time for Dashain festival.  We also came across the shop selling a beautiful leaf patterned silk that I had spotted on my first day with George, but hadn’t managed to find again so I bought enough for another dress to be tailored at some point.  Sarah bought an amazing piece of mandala artwork which depicts the circle of life, the elements, and holds messages about well-being and spiritualism which will go nicely in her newly renovated house.

Then off to the Full Moon Bar (with a half moon motif) for cocktails and chilly chips.  A small deviation to Paddy’s bar (yes even in Kathmandu) as they had a live band and before we knew it, it was 1am and we were leaving having spent the evening chatting and drinking with a group of doctors from all over the world  who were here to work in Kathmandu. Random events like that happen here as everyone is open and chatting to strangers is the pleasant norm - it is amazing who you meet.  I must apologise to Kirsty and Ian for the slightly tipsy conversation I had with you having called the UK – it was great to speak to you though.

Monday 15^th October

Today was a lazy day.  I did a bit of shopping and booked in for a 1.5hour trekkers massage which was a combination of Shiatsu, Thai and Areyvedervic (the one I can’t say or spell – but very oily!).  She was walking on my back stretching me and it was great – a little surprised when my chest was included but presumed it must be the norm.  We had a lovely dinner and an early night......

Today is day 12 so I’ve got a bit of catching up to do, so brace yourselves.  The internet connection here is slow and so uploading pictures is difficult at the moment.

 

I now know the festival we were caught up in yesterday was Indra Jhatra, which is a festival celebrating the time that villagers captured a god who was stealing a flower for his mother, which is apparently not an everyday occurrence, and is mainly for good harvest and rain.  The living goddess or Kumari Devi is selected from a specific Newari caste and has to have 32 exact physical characteristics like the shape of her teeth, colour of her eyes etc and then the possible girls selected all aged between 4 and puberty are put in a room and subjected to men circling them in scary masks the one who doesn’t flinch and is then successful at a few other tests is proclaimed the Kumari Devi.  From then on she is revered, and her feet will not touch the ground.  Once she has her first period then she becomes mortal again, and is paid off with a dowry to be married, they are quite high maintenance so many don’t want to marry an ex-goddess despite the money incentive.

Thursday 4^th October

 We spent a day organising out trip to Pokhara and walking up the 352 steps to the Swayanbhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) from the top the views over Kathmandu were amazing.  It is a massive place which I didn’t really appreciate. George who has a phobia of monkeys and pigeons was a brave girl although these weren’t your average tourist monkeys as they actively stayed away from us. The stupa was a large white dome which represents the earth and is topped by a gilded spire that is painted with the eyes of Buddha.  The legend is that the Kathmandu valley was a lake and the stupa spontaneously rose from the centre, Swayanbhunath means “self-risen”.  The base of the stupa is surrounded by prayer wheels embossed with the Buddhist mantra “hail to the jewel in the lotus”.  You walk round in a clockwise direction spinning each one as you go.  This is a quiet and spiritual place where the horns and the traffic can’t be heard.

 

Today we also discovered “german bakery” products which are basically Danish pastries that are a bit drier but just as tasty as you’d expect- perfect as a safe mobile snack.

Friday 5^th October

We set off for Pokhara very early taking the tourist bus which took 7 hours, the time factor is due to 3 stops along the way and the road conditions.  Other than the usual motorbikes and Suzuki taxis the main vehicles are the massive trucks carrying building supplies etc.  They are all brightly painted and have logos on the front bumpers such as “speed control” and “Road King”, they have pictures of the Hindu gods next to man united stickers and have prayer flags and ribbons tied on.  Vehicles get blessed as part of the October Dasain festival and the images and logos are to keep the drivers safe on the perilous roads.  

We arrived in Pokhara late afternoon and checked into our luxury hotel which was a little way out of the main town next to the lake.  Pokhara is out in the countryside and is lush, green and peaceful.  The evening was spent going onto town and meeting our guide for the trip and getting dinner at a local restaurant.

Saturday 6^th October

We were picked up early and driven in a very swish (suzuki as ever)  4x4 car and driven about 1 hour out of Pokhara to Birethanti.  From here we walked for 5 hours uphill.  The temperature was extremely hot so the pace was moderate.  The path is really easy to follow as it is generally stone and slate steps set into the hills, or dried up stony riverbeds and waterfalls.  The scenery is something else.  Views for miles across the gorges, large rivers, waterfalls - really incredible.  There were many other trekkers around, as this is peak season for getting to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC).  The rules of the paths are to give way to the donkey trains which you hear coming as they all wear cow bells, and the porters carrying the most ridiculous weights in bamboo baskets carried by a strap over the top of their heads.  We had felt a little guilty that our porter was carrying one medium rucksack and 2 sleeping bags, but seeing how much other porters get loaded up we now know ours had an easy time in comparison.  They are stronger and faster than us even though they are in flip flops. 

We arrived at Ulleri at 4pm and stayed in Pratap guest house which was basic with a shared bathroom, and the bedrooms were separated by plywood that didn’t quite go floor to ceiling, we had 2 beds and a table.  However the place was clean, the shower was hot, the family were welcoming and it was the perfect place to end the day.  We placed our food orders early and watched mother go down the hill, select a chicken to buy, kill it, pluck it and and cook it – can’t get fresher than that.  The evening was cold and we were in bed by 7pm, having played a few rounds of SHITHEAD card game with a couple of South Africans.

Sunday 7^th October

We were awake early (again) and out of the window was the most amazing view of the peaks Annapurna South (7273m), Hiunchuli (6441m) and Machapuchhare (Fish-tail) (6997m), this is the time to mention our fabulous guide Binod (Mr Bean) he looked after us so well, making sure we always had the best room with the best views.  He hit the spot here.

We set off and walked up for about 5 hours again.  Binod always walked behind and if we stopped for a rest he waited with us, we could rest as much as we wanted and he was pointing out the peaks and sights as we went - a perfect guide.  Siva our porter was generally well ahead of us as he would speed on and take longer rests while we caught up.  There were many places to stop for drinks although the further up we went the more expensive they got.  The prices are all set by the Annapurna sanctuary committees and we pay more for the porterage the higher we went.

Today’s walking was easier.  Classed as “Nepali flat” ie ups and downs, and through rhododendron forests, we were  out of the sun.  The waterfalls here were frequent and stunning.  We arrived in Ghorepani (2760m) at 1pm and had a lazy afternoon, doing washing, exploring, looking in the small local shops and admiring the views.  The family who ran the Guesthouse were friendly and welcoming which seems to be the lovely norm of Nepal.  There were plenty of other trekkers here, Israelis who were very demanding of the Nepali family, and groups of young oriental couples (Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean, Japanese) who in the lodges are respectful and friendly, and on the paths are loud and a little annoying – these are sweeping generalisations that applied to all the groups we came across during this trip.

The main living area was heated by a huge log burning heater in the centre of the room.  This evening was spent playing cards with Binod, Andrew and James the SA’s who were also staying.  We ate our first Dal Bhaat, which is rice with lentil soup and curried vegetables and pickles – it was delicious although we were reliably informed that it was not always this good.  Our food selections have been cautious to reduce risks of adverse events during our long spells walking!  Water is easy to come by as there are purified water stations and boiled water is readily available, although we are still adding iodine to the water because we know the boiling point of water is lower at altitude (although we have no clue what this altitude is!).  Tonigh’ts guesthouse had walls that go right to the ceiling but we can still hear every snore and muttering, I love my ear plugs.

Monday 8^th October

Today we woke at 4.15am to climb Poon Hill (3200m) named after one of the Nepali Kings.  It was dark and cold so we had the full kit on and head torches.  This is the thing to do here so there were about 300 other people climbing the hill to see the sunrise over the mountains.  It took about 1 hour, walking up all the time.  About 2/3 of the way up we passed a woman vomiting – altitude sickness is more common on this hike.  We got to the top and all I had was tingling fingers which passed after being there 10mins.  According to our guide if you can get to the top with no problems then you have a good chance of getting to ABC as well.  The views were incredible and when the sun did finally peek over the top of the mountains there was a cheer, mainly from the oriental contingent!

We stayed until the sun was fully up taking hundreds of photos as every time it moved the view changed.  Then back down to the guest house for breakfast.  By the time we finished breakfast Siva had gone with the bags as this was a long day about 7 hours more on top of what we had already done.  Most of the 7 hours today was downhill, which turned out to be far harder on the legs than the uphill and by lunchtime we had wobbly legs and bad knee control which is fairly essential when you are picking your way down rocks on a steep hillside!

We stopped at Tadapani which means hot springs for lunch.  At Tadapani those who are continuing onto base camp split off, while we headed onto Ghandruk.  We were knackered at this point and our legs were finished, and although we had both been dreading this day we actually had one of the best days because of the company and the scenery.  We arrived in Ghandruk at about 4pm to a guest house run by a lovely Newari family the lady running it had lived in Derby and her sisters were still in the UK so we had lots to talk about.  One of the oriental groups arrived about 2 hours later after the sun had gone in and kicked off because the solar heated hot showers were no longer hot – it had been dark for an hour – trying to explain this was a hard task for the family particularly when faced with 2 stomping, tantrum throwing girls – laughable yet entertaining.  She frankly told them they could leave if they weren’t happy – a hard thing to do in the dark up a mountain, guesthouse 1-stomping girls 0.

Tonight we were taught the “Trekking Dance” done to Newari Folk music (I think designed to entertain the guides!) it was supposed to stop our muscles aching in the morning – we’ll see.

Every evening Binod would sit down and recap the events of the day, let us know what was in store for the next, and give us the so far very accurate weather forecast in a BBC weather report style.  The next day was described as 3 hours down and 2 hours “English Flat”.

Tuesday 9^th October

Left the guesthouse after a Danish pastry breakfast eaten whilst looking at the mountains and the glacier beautiful.  The walk was as promised and for the most part we followed the river which is milky coloured due to the limestone.  Our legs were so painful the Trekking Dance had not worked at all – for those of you who ski, it was worse than day 3 ski legs.  There were plenty of donkeys on the path and we passed many trekkers on their way up which made me strangely smug as we were on the way down.  The pain didn’t really ease off so we were glad to hit English Flat.  We were back in Birethani by 1pm and after a quick celebratory drink we got back in the car for the hour drive back to Pokhara.

In Pokhara we tipped Siva and Binod and swapped details with Binod as he will be my guide again if I go back in January.  Then back to the plush hotel which now seemed extravagant and unnecessary after our experiences.  However we overcame this and got straight in the pool for a swim and sat by the pool looking over the lake watching the parascenders coming into land by the hotel.  We decided to eat at the hotel which was delicious, discovered chilly chips which will certainly make another appearance, and then retired to our room to watch the monsoon storm that had broken out (so glad we didn’t go into town).  After indulging in the Bourne Supremacy on HBO we went to bed.

The Pokhara trip was fantastic the scenery was incredible and seeing the mountains everyday was inspiring – I do wish we had had the time to go to base camp.  Our guide Binod took such good care of us and really made the experience special.  Siva was very quiet throughout and we had less of a relationship with him, despite our best efforts but I think this is the remnants of the caste system.  Binod described the gold and the brown caste system as, the gold are the business and professional people and the browns are the labourers and the strong people.  Siva wouldn’t sit with us neither of them would eat with us and they were surprised when we bought them a coke at the end, a real eye opener.  Binod has now declared George and I as his sisters and has invited me back to spend Dasain, Christmas and new year with his family.  Who knows……

go to facebook for my Pokhara photos

Wednesday 10^th October

Up early and back on the tourist bus to Kathmandu, this time it was really empty and we had a seat each to lie on.  We got back to Kathmandu Guest House at about 3pm in time to meet Sarah, a good friend from home who had taken a last minute flight from the UK to come out for 2 weeks.  We went to the roof garden in Helena’s – 6 floors up for dinner and gin to welcome Sarah – this was no mean feat on trekkers legs! Then an early night. Tomorrow was a big day.

Thursday 11^th October

We got up at 5am as today was the day to fly to Everest.  We went to the domestic terminal at the airport and watched all the Everest Base campers getting on the Siva air flights to Lukla airport where they start the Everest treks from.  George was banned from talking about crashing planes as it was a bit annoying and negative!   We flew with Buddah air. During take off you can see just how big Kathmandu is and the smog cloud that sits over the city is easy to see – I understand why so many people wear face masks in the streets.  Everyone had a window seat and after take off the stewardesses pointed out the different peaks we could see, and we took turns going up in to the cockpit to take photos.  The plane did a return trip so everyone got a good view.  The weather was perfect and the views of Everest and the Holy mountain were spectacular we were so much closer than I had expected us to be and although I have not climbed Everest it has certainly touched me.  Thanks to all the Stoken crew who got this trip for me as a leaving present.  I absolutely loved it and am so glad to have done it.

 

We had breakfast at the roadhouse, and then got a taxi to Dhulikhel which is the town I will be working at.  It is about 1.5 hours from Kathmandu and is less crowded and cramped.  It is also much higher than Kathmandu valley so the air is cleaner and the views of the mountains are fantastic.

We went straight to the guesthouse where I am supposed to be staying – the room we were shown to was gross.  The floors and walls were filthy and there were fag ends everywhere the kitchen was dirty and I could have cried.  So we then spent the rest of the afternoon- having checked into a different basic but clean guesthouse- looking for somewhere more suitable for me to stay.  I was grateful to have my support team with me today.  Doing this was a great way to see Dhulikhel which is basically one main road and two lovely back streets with plenty of small single room stalls and shops.

We ate at the hotel based at the highest point to watch the mountains and had a spicy feast of Newari snacks and vegetable tali.

Friday 12^th October

After wandering around the town we went down to the hospital to meet some of the team.  The hospital is a modern building built 3 years ago.  The different departments each have their own building scattered over the hillside with the university buildings further down the mountain.  I met Sachit who is the critical care lecturer, and Martin who is a fly-in like me, from Belgium, here to mentor the musculoskeletal team.  He got here is February and is well established.  After talking to them about the guest house it transpired we were not in the right place and the guesthouse I am in is new, clean and well looked after.  The current fly-ins and some Norwegian students are all happily in residence there already – such a relief!! (Mum you can stop worrying now x)

A tour of the department showed a medium sized gym with all the basics you could want.  The team were all friendly and relaxed and I think I’ll enjoy working here.

From here we took our first “local bus” back to Kathmandu which cost 50 rupees about 35p (compared to the cab out which cost £10) I was sat on the gear box for the entire journey but loved every minute.  There is no polite form on these buses – elbows out and get any seat or space you can – or share the roof with the goats!

Back in Kathmandu we relaxed – showered, and even put a bit of make up on - all very civilised.  Out to dinner at the Black Olive – then unfortunately back to the hotel feeling ill whilst George and Sarah stayed out drinking gin and shopping.  After an hour at the hotel I got a text from Jim who I have never met, but have been in touch with via my “cousin” Bex.  He has been here for 2 months and is teaching Chemistry at the English school in Patan for 3 years.  He had come into Thamel to meet me, so I got up.  Turns out to be a top bloke, we shared stories and then he and Suszka his friend went off to party at J bar.  We were planning a quiet night, but got chatting to 2 Aussie chaps and ended up in the bar next door and then the club next to that until 1am the latest we have managed so far.  The club was odd – fluorescent and neon and full of beautiful but obvious call-girls dancing with the not so beautiful and blatant western men – there was a Jackie Chan style main man watching over proceedings.  Needless to say, we had a drink chatted lots and then made a sharp exit dragging Sarah away from the bar and the crowd of Nepali guys she was about to buy a round for! Then bed bed bed – knackered.

Saturday 13^th October

The unexpected nights are always the best.  The Aussie guys were leaving at 8am this morning to fly to Lukla for the Everest climb so good luck to them, if they were feeling anything like George and Sarah then they are in for an interesting day!

George has had a massage this morning – my legs are still a bit too sore for that – and is now having a lie down.  Plans today are breakfast, shopping and then we are off to Bodnath this afternoon where the monks and pilgrims circumnavigate the Buddhist stupa as a religious ritual – but more on that later – off to wake up George for breakfast she is not spending her last day in bed!.................

We, that is George* and I arrived in Kathmandu last night, and after the most hair raising taxi ride ever (not sure my travel insurance will have covered such an extreme activity) through the dust and dark we arrived at the guest house which is an oasis in the middle of the chaos.  1 Everest beer later and we settled in with the local covers band playing our sort of music despite being so far from home.

Today we woke up late needing a bit of recovery after travelling yesterday, sleep was only disturbed by the clicking fan and the pigeon canoodling on the window sill, we are 5 floors up so it is quiet.  Egg sandwiches for breakfast at the guest house and then we planned to pop to the local supermarket.  However, we got a bit distracted and ended up walking to Durbur Square which has the largest number of temples in a square mile in Kathmandu.  There was something in the air today and by pure chance we ended up right in the middle of the last day of a festival (although still trying to work out which one!) Thousands of people descending on Durbur square to see the living goddess  paraded through the city on a float pulled by about 30 men through the crowds (no health and safety barriers here) we stood up on the temple Maju Dega for a great view everyone is friendly just like I was told – good job - we were rammed in.  We then took the “quiet route” back to the hotel not realising that the procession from the festival consisting of the representation of Ganash (chap dressed as an elephant running around with fire), the 2 goddess hand maiden floats, and the living goddess float took to the narrow streets we were walking.  We were totally in the middle of it all and it was excellent squashed against the shops with a close up view of the now sleeping goddess trundling by on the 6ft high wooden wheels – we decided it must be safe there were kids everywhere.  After a showering of dry rice and marigolds thrown like confetti it was all over and we made our way back stopping at “Fire and Ice” restaurant for pizza and risotto (note to self we must eat local food tomorrow!).  Now sat in the guest house bar recovering, can’t go to bed yet it’s not double figures. 

*George is one of my closest friends who has come out with me for the first 2 weeks, fellow physiotherapist from university days, ski season buddy and traveller extraordinaire (today she was also chief navigator)